Forward-thinking Lewes Town Council in East Sussex recently passed a motion acknowledging its woodlands, forests, hedgerows and individual trees have the right to life, to flourish and to complete natural life cycles. Even if you're not a tree-hugger, you've got to admit that's a step in the right direction when it comes to protecting our beautiful countryside.
I hadn't visited the town before, but the headlines surrounding the new charter of trees' rights had me intrigued, and hopeful - anywhere so keen to protect its environment was bound to be off-the-scale stunning and most likely a brilliant place for a weekend break immersed in nature.
How green is it?
I can confirm hilly Lewes has a lot of trees. Surrounded by the rolling South Downs, yet just an hour from London by train and twenty minutes from Brighton, its scenic-yet-easy-to-reach location is a big part of its appeal, along with a fascinating history, enviable architecture and oodles of culture.
After a short, sharp hike up onto the Downs, I turned to gaze at the town below and the sheer volume of greenery was breathtaking, with more trees, woodlands and hedgerows than you can shake a, err, stick at. It's so dense in parts you can only see a few chimneys peeking out of the trees, and I later discovered it's one of only two Arboretum towns in the UK - a living museum of trees and plants.
What did you get up to?
Lots of walking, including a particularly idyllic stroll along the banks of the River Ouse, past weeping willows and spectacular houses with gardens backing onto the water. I also strode up steep Chapel Hill, past pretty flint-covered cottages, to be rewarded with far-reaching views of the town and its silvery river below.
Lewes' history is as well preserved as its trees, so there's almost too much heritage to cover in one weekend. You can't miss medieval Lewes Castle in the centre of town, a 950-year-old fortress built after the Battle of Hastings with steps to the summit for more stunning town (and tree) views. Fast-forward to 1776 and American founding father Thomas Paine was a resident, living in charming old Bull House on the high street where he wrote the Common Sense and The American Crisis, two of the most influential papers at the start of the fight for American independence - his home is now a museum open for visits on Thursdays and Saturdays.
And then there's the Bloomsbury Set, a group of free-thinking, free-living writers, artists and intellectuals who split their time between London and summers in Lewes, including feminist writer Virginia Woolf. She spent much time at Monk's House in Rodmell just outside Lewes, while her sister Vanessa Bell, her partner Duncan Grant and partner's lover David Garnett, took over Charleston Farmhouse, another major sightseeing spot today.
Where did you stay?
Former 16th century coaching inn The White Hart, now a gastro pub with rooms in the centre of Lewes and a perfect base from which to explore the town. I particularly loved its heritage – famous Lewes resident and American Founding Father Thomas Paine used to pop in for a pint and political philosophising back in the 1700s and the oak-panelled interiors, complete with an enormous Parliamentary Clock, really transport you back to another era. It's not hard to imagine Paine and pals holed up in one of the pub's nooks by a roaring fire, discussing the finer points of the republic.
The inn's part of the Heartwood Collection founded by chef Raymond Blanc, so the food, as you can imagine, is a real highlight. The back of the pub suddenly transforms into a light, modern orangery restaurant where the pièce de résistance is a large outside terrace with views of the South Downs - probably the best place for breakfast or lunch with a view in all of Lewes.
For supper, my friend Nicki and I chose dressed Devon crab and prawn and crayfish starters, followed by a delicious fish curry and filet of sea bream swimming in a rich bouillabaisse sauce and, finally, a sticky toffee pudding – we ordered one serving and two spoons and made very short work of it. We departed happy with our choices, but the menu's one of those exciting ones where you want absolutely everything on it, from the shared charcuterie board to the apricot and harissa spiced chicken tagine. Next time.
Room 14 on the second floor was a pleasant mix of old and new – ancient beams, creaky floorboards and sash windows alongside a super king-sized bed, rainfall showers and Bramley toiletries. I loved the use of warm terracotta shades for the wardrobe and other furnishings, pretty lamps and bedside Roberts radio, which gave it a really cosy, welcoming vibe on arrival. Despite being on the high street, it wasn't particularly noisy and I slept for eight hours straight, then managed work my way through a vegetarian breakfast with all the trimmings at breakfast the next morning. Mini break magic.
Anything else before I go?
Café culture is big in Lewes. I popped into Flint Owl Bakery for lunch, where you can pick up freshly baked organic bread, pastries and salads and eat them in the dinky courtyard outback. Taith on the high street is the place to go for freshly roasted coffee with a view of the Downs, plus it triples as a bookshop and pottery studio too.
Shopping-wise, Lewes champions independents. Definitely drop into The Needlemakers, a converted candle-making factory now packed full of indie shops and gorgeous Italian restaurant Squisito. Pick up handmade chocolates from Bonne Bouche, a tiny pink store in one of the network of narrow lanes off the high street, and affordable art from Chalk Gallery.
And if you're looking for more wellbeing than a walk, pack your bikini because Lewes is home to Pells Pool, the oldest freshwater outdoor public pool in UK which also has a sauna attached.
Go there!
Rooms at The White Hart, Lewes start at £219 for two people, based on a one-night stay and including breakfast BOOK NOW.
