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- Korean sunscreens are known to be more cosmetically elegant and easier to wear than their American counterparts.
- Millions of people are shopping for these products—many of which are not available for purchase in the United States—online from overseas retailers or the gray market.
- Here, dermatologists warn about the hidden dangers of purchasing these products online, and how to keep your skin safe.
Applying the right amount of daily sunscreen in the morning is a crucial way to protect yourself from skin cancer and prevent the visible signs of aging—in fact, it’s one of the few topical ingredients proven to work. The problem: Most people don’t like using it all that much. Sticky, gloopy, and noticeable on dark skin, SPF is an “I know I should” but I don’t want to” product. So, it makes sense to look for certain sunscreen ingredients along with a formula that feels lightweight and won’t leave behind a cast.
Enter Korean sunscreens, which many people consider the gold standard when it comes to elegance and effectiveness.
True to many K-beauty products, these UV blockers feel more like high-end skincare than sunscreen. They also tend to layer seamlessly under makeup, making it easier to fend off wrinkles and skin cancer as part of your skincare routine. “A lot of it comes down to texture,” says Melanie Palm, MD, dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Art of Skin MD. “While we've come a long way with sunscreens in the US, Korean brands have done a better job creating formulas that disappear into skin quickly, don't feel greasy, and play nicely with other products.”
Meet the experts: Ife J. Rodney, MD, founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics; Melanie Palm, MD, dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Art of Skin MD; Aditi Senthilnathan, MD, a fellow in the Department of Dermatology at the Perelman School of Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania; Susan Massick, MD, a dermatologist at The Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center
The problem: Many of the UV filters approved for use in Korea are not yet available here in the US (though that may soon change). And since sunscreens are regulated as over-the-counter drugs by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration, that means that even the Korean SPF products you buy from reputable retailers here in the States will likely feel different from the ones you’d get straight from Korea.
That’s why it may be tempting to buy these products from overseas retailers or on the gray market. But there are things that you should be aware of before you do so—some of which may be putting your health at risk.
Here’s why dermatologists, in some cases, would prefer you didn’t click “add to cart.”
Understanding the risks.
It’s important to stress that not all products shipped from overseas or purchased from unauthorized retailers will cause a problem—but some may. Here’s what you need to keep in mind if you plan to buy online.
1. Temperature control is a potential issue.
When you buy an authentic Korean sunscreen online, it has to make its way to the U.S. somehow. While it’s nice to think of your sunscreen traveling in a temperature-controlled container, that’s unlikely to happen and, unfortunately, overseas shipping can mess with the quality of the formula. “Exposure to high temperatures for extended periods of time can weaken UV filters and reduce sunscreen efficacy,” says Aditi Senthilnathan, MD, a fellow in the Department of Dermatology at the Perelman School of Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania.
Dr. Palm agrees. “When you buy a sunscreen from a local retailer, there's usually a fairly controlled supply chain behind it,” she says. “When products are shipped internationally or purchased through third-party sellers, it can be harder to know where they've been stored and for how long.”
Yes, sunscreens are formulated to remain stable, but regular exposure to excessive heat isn’t good for any skincare product, Dr. Palm says. The dead giveaways that something has gone amiss: “If a sunscreen arrives looking separated, unusually watery, grainy, or otherwise different than expected, I'd be cautious about using it,” she says. “Most people don't realize that sunscreen is a product you're relying on for a very specific level of protection—so the integrity of the product is critical here.”
2. You’re not entirely sure what you’re getting.
No shocker here, but if you purchase from the gray market, there's no guarantee that what you’re getting is good stuff. And if you’re buying an authentic Korean product from a retailer outside the country, you’ll likely have no clue what’s inside the sunscreen—unless you read Korean.“I have patients who bring in these products and they want me to tell them if they’re any good,” says Ife J. Rodney, MD, founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics. “My response is that it’s hard to know what’s in it if I can’t read the label.”
The product may contain ingredients suitable to some skin types, but not yours, which could cause a reaction in very sensitive skin. And while some K-beauty sunscreens will have ingredients also listed in English online or on the label, that’s not a universal trait. “It’s really important to know what’s in the products you apply to your skin,” Rodney says. “You may have allergic reactions or you may need to know basic information, like whether this is a chemical or mineral sunscreen.”
3. Knock-offs are an issue.
“Unfortunately, there is a considerable number of counterfeit products sold online,” says Susan Massick, MD, a dermatologist at The Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center. “If they’re much cheaper than you expect, then buyer beware.”
There are a slew of potential concerns there, including that your sunscreen may claim to have a certain SPF but be much less efficient, Dr. Senthilnathan points out. Dr. Palm says knock-offs are her biggest concern with buying Korean sunscreens online. “Many Korean sunscreens are excellent products,” she says. “My concern is that you're not actually getting the product you think you bought.”
How to pick out a good sunscreen
Sunscreen only works if you’ll wear it, making it crucial to choose something you like, Dr. Senthilnathan points out.
- Look for authentic goods. “Purchase from pharmacies or other established retailers rather than third parties,” she says.
- Know what to look for. Dr. Massick suggests using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection that is water-resistant with SPF 30+ for daily use and SPF 50+ for more intense sun exposure and outdoor activities. (Korean sunscreens will also have PA—scale + - ++++—to specifically measure UVA protection, she points out.)
- Consider your skin type. While you’re at it, Dr. Palm recommends doing a deep dive into the ingredients to make sure they match up with your needs. “Acne-prone skin types tend to do better with lightweight and non-comedogenic formulations, whereas mature skin can tolerate thicker formulas,” she says. Mineral-based sunscreens like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide tend to be less irritating for people with rosacea or sensitive skin vs. chemical filters like oxybenzone or octinoxate, Palm says.
- Go high. If you prefer a Korean sunscreen, try to look for a product with a high UV filter and buy from reputable retailers whenever you can, Palm says.
Korean Sunscreens Our Editors Love
If you know anything about madeca creams, you know they’re soothing superstars. That’s thanks to madecassoside, a plant-derived anti-inflammatory ingredient. This SPF contains it, along with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid for soothing hydration.
Don’t mistake this sunscreen’s lightweight feel for something that won’t adequately hydrate skin. It’s the opposite, in fact: A hearty dose of panthenol and hyaluronic acid moisturizer with no greasiness, leaving behind a fresh, dewy finish.
Oily types, rejoice! Not only is this formula completely weightless on skin, it’s been tested to be non-pore-clogging, so you can wear it with confidence knowing that breakouts are not coming for you.
At the end of the day, consistency matters more than almost anything else, Palm says. “I'd rather see someone wear a sunscreen they love every single day than own the ‘perfect’ sunscreen that sits in a drawer because they don't enjoy using it.”
Korin Miller is a seasoned freelance writer specializing in general wellness, sexual health and relationships, and lifestyle trends, with work appearing in Men’s Health, Women’s Health, Everyday Health, Food & Wine, and more. She has a master’s degree from American University and lives by the beach.
Brian Underwood is beauty director at Women’s Health, where he oversees content strategy for the brand across all platforms, including digital, print, and social. Underwood previously served as beauty and wellness director at Oprah Daily and O, The Oprah Magazine. During his tenure leading beauty content for the Oprah brand at Hearst, stories Underwood commissioned were awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Media Award and a Fragrance Award for Editorial Excellence (his second). He was the launch Beauty Director of Dr. Oz THE GOOD LIFE, and has held additional editorial positions at Fitness, Organic Style, Good Housekeeping, Life & Style Weekly, and Woman’s Day and has written for Self, Shape, Seventeen, Redbook, Cosmopolitan, and many more. Underwood previously served on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s gala committee and as partnerships director of the Trans Beauty Clinic, a New York-based charitable organization that provided beauty services and workshops to the city’s trans community.
